Ferries, heritage walks, Chinese breakfast, street food, Victoria Memorial, and mishti, this is what 24 Hours in Kolkata offers
Time stops in Kolkata. The moment you bask in its faded glory, the city unfolds itself. It lets you in. You come face-to-face with the madness of yellow Ambassador taxis rushing through the crowded street, almost awakening the city. You see a tea stall in every inch and corner where conversations never end. The trams hum and rattle, the Indo Victorian mansions are a window to the beautiful past, and Kolkata, even when it’s bursting with life, it urges you to pause and breathe. But that’s not all.
Many say Kolkata is an emotion. The joy is contagious as you step into the City of Joy. People are warm and welcoming and are known to have quite a sweet tooth. Their love for art, literature, music, and theatre is reflected in the city. This city loves to celebrate, and Durga Puja is a spectacle every year. Such is the pulse of this city. It is also a melting pot of cultures; as Chinese immigrants, Anglo-Indians, Armenians, Jews, Marwaris and Biharis all reside in harmony, leaving behind influences that shaped the city’s food culture and way of life.
Truth be told, you cannot grab hold of the whole of Kolkata in 24 hours. However, it is certainly enough to feel its heartbeat. Start your day by taking a ferry ride, strolling through the picturesque streets of North Kolkata and exploring Victoria Memorial. Visit Tiretta Bazaar, go for street food walks and Mishti hopping to experience Kolkata’s culinary scene. If you want to take a piece of Kolkata with you forever, here is our ultimate guide on how to spend a day in Kolkata.
Morning at Prinsep Ghat
Experience Kolkata in its entirety at Prinsep Ghat, one of Kolkata’s most iconic riverfront promenades. Built in memory of James Prinsep, the white Palladian-style monument stands still before the Hooghly River. Even if you are not a morning person, it is highly recommended that you arrive at dawn, take a ferry and catch a scenic sunrise above the shimmering waters.
You can see the city skyline, Vidyasagar Setu, Howrah Bridge and Howrah Station at a distance. One bank of the river showcases the colonial-style buildings of the ghat and the boulevard bordered by trees, while the opposite side opens up to the lively chaos of Howrah, still lethargic. Immerse yourself in the serenity of the moment as Kolkata gently wakes up.
You would not get this in any other city. Watching Kolkata breathe life into itself is a surreal experience. If you crave to explore more, you can walk close to Howrah Bridge and find yourself in a sea of colourful flowers at Mullick Ghat. It is one of Asia’s largest flower markets, where you can buy flowers in bulk at very cheap prices. The flower market has thrived for over 130 years along the banks of the Hooghly River. The Ghat is a beautiful mess of florists haggling, porters carrying heaps of marigolds, roses, lotuses and the air thick with scents of blossoms.
A Chinese Breakfast at Tiretta Bazaar
If you want to break your fast in an unusual way, Kolkata has your back. Visit Tiretta Bazaar, Asia’s oldest Chinatown. At 6 a.m., temporary stalls emerge along the sidewalks, staffed by the determined members of the small Chinese community. Bamboo steamers are raised to uncover soft bao, dumplings stuffed with pork and chives, and fine rice-flour pancakes. You may also find sticky rice rolls, roast pork slices, fried wontons and even noodle soup. There is nothing fancy here. Just modest, raw ambience, authentic delicacies wrapped in tradition and passed down through generations.
The Hakka community of China settled in Kolkata in the late 1700s. They created their own identity with their food over time, and the city takes pride in both fusion and authentic Chinese. The first documented Chinese settler in Kolkata was Tong Atchew (also known as Yang Dazhao), a merchant from Guangdong province who arrived in 1778 and set up a sugarcane plantation close to Budge Budge, located south of the city. Subsequently, waves of Hakka immigrants from southern China came, attracted by opportunities in trade, tanning, carpentry, and food enterprises during British colonial rule. They primarily established themselves in Tiretta Bazaar (Old Chinatown, near central Kolkata) and later in Tangra, situated on the eastern outskirts of the city.
Heritage Walk: Streets of North Kolkata
Some places hold history, memories and a deep sense of nostalgia. Such are the streets of North Kolkata. You are transported back to another era, only to find crumbling mansions, courtyards, and streets lined with Indo-Victorian architecture. Some houses are completely abandoned, while other structures have been renovated into cafes.
It is a bittersweet feeling nonetheless. Red-brick schools from a bygone era, and expansive “bonedi bari” which were the ancestral homes of noble families whose fading elegance is still evident in Corinthian columns, balustraded balconies, and intricately carved windows. Some structures gleam with fresh paint, well-preserved; others display peeling pastel colours, their once-stately arches weathered yet dignified, providing a glimpse into a past aristocracy that is now slowly fading away.
North Kolkata is distinguished by its eclectic blend of architectural styles. A Neo-Classical column may stand next to a delicate terracotta design, or Gothic arches may flank verandahs covered with bamboo screens. Weaving a harmonic tapestry that represents not only wealth and influence but also a time when art, culture, and cross-cultural encounters were part of everyday life. Local features that connect the area to its current reality add to its allure, such as a hand-pulled rickshaw slowly passing along Bidhan Sarani, the scent of incense drifting from an open shrine, and the morning gatherings of elderly residents relaxing under banyan trees in their ancestral yards.
Literary Haven at College Street
After a long walk through the streets of North Kolkata, visit Boi para (also College Street) to witness Asia’s largest second-hand book locality. This famed boulevard, spanning more than a kilometre, is unlike any other marketplace in India. Along both sides of the street, innumerable temporary vendors, established shops, and worn bookshops coexist, their shelves brimming with everything from rare first editions and leather-bound classics to newly released academic textbooks. Stalls overwhelmed with piles of books mount up in soaring heights, where one may find an out-of-print novel snuggled between stacks of old pages.
University students meander through stalls in search of budget-friendly textbooks, while professors explore vintage editions, and travellers immerse themselves in the hope of discovering hidden gems. At the core of this literary universe stands the Indian Coffee House, a landmark in its own right. Its lofty ceilings, timeless charm, and marble-topped tables have welcomed some of Bengal’s most brilliant minds—writers, poets, artists, and intellectuals, who once engaged in passionate debates, inspired dreams, and ignited revolutions over countless cups of coffee. Enjoying a cup of its renowned frothy brew is to partake in a tradition that has sustained generations of the city’s cultural luminaries.
Lunch the Local Way at Pice Hotels
If you want to be one with the locals, it is important to blend in with the crowd. Lunch at a Pice hotel, such as Swadhin Bharat Hindu Hotel near College Street, is a quintessential Kolkata experience. Pice hotels are named after the tiny pice, which was the smallest currency during the colonial period. These places had a basic goal, that is to provide good Bengali cuisine at a low cost for migratory labourers, students, and office staff in the early twentieth century.
The first Pice hotels arose from the kitchens of boarding quarters known as “messbaris,” which served individuals seeking a familiar taste of home within the metropolis. These institutions thrived near significant educational and commercial centres. The Swadhin Bharat Hindu Hotel, which was founded in 1927 and is located at 8/2 Bhawani Dutta Lane, near Presidency University and just a short walk from College Street’s famous bookstore. Lunch is typically served on banana leaf plates or stainless steel thalis, and the atmosphere is relaxed, with wooden benches, community tables, and the cheerful sounds of guests enjoying their meals together.
An Afternoon at Victoria Memorial
After a hearty lunch, head to Kolkata’s one of the most iconic places, Victoria Memorial. It is a huge white marble monument placed in the city centre within 64 acres of lovely gardens. The memorial, designed by Lord Curzon, then Viceroy of India, and built between 1906 and 1921, commemorates Queen Victoria’s 25-year reign as Empress of India after her death in 1901. The Victoria Memorial, designed by British architect William Emerson, is an excellent work of Indo-Saracenic architecture that seamlessly combines British Renaissance, Mughal, and classical features. The white marble used in its construction is sourced from the same Makrana quarries in Rajasthan that supplied the Taj Mahal, giving the structure a traditional and regal appearance.
The Victoria Memorial contains 25 galleries that store a vast collection of historical artefacts, royal memorabilia, rare paintings, sculptures, and manuscripts documenting the British colonial era and India’s history. Exhibits include portraits of Queen Victoria and other British royals, as well as prominent Indian historical figures, and add to the monument’s position as a cultural storehouse and educational hub.
The gardens that surround the landmark structure offer a peaceful respite from the hustle and bustle of the city. Lord Redesdale and Sir David Prain designed the 64-acre property, which has well-kept lawns, water features, rare trees, and floral displays, making it a popular spot for morning walks, picnics, and photography. The gardens contribute to the Memorial’s renown as more than just a museum; they provide a social environment that combines nature, history, and art.
Evening Indulgence: Street Food Walks
Kolkata’s food culture comes alive in its street food. Thousands of people are dependent on street food, and these street food hubs are very popular. Start your evening by savouring the famed rolls, which are small, egg-coated parathas loaded with a variety of spiced ingredients such as mutton keema, egg, chicken, or chingri (prawn). These rolls are typically grilled on hot tavas and served fresh and hot, making them a perfect portable meal with spicy chutneys, a squeeze of lemon and crunchy onions. They are especially popular in the evenings along College and Park Streets.
The cherished phuchkas (local variation of panipuri) come next. These hollow, crunchy semolina shells are filled with a fiery blend of mashed potatoes and tamarind water that explodes with sweet, sour, and spicy flavours in every bite. As you go through the alleyways of Vivekananda Park or any other place with a phuchka vendor, you will notice locals and visitors stuffing their mouths with this spicy-tangy goodness.
Telebhaja, Kolkata’s version of deep-fried fritters, is as appealing as a side dish with chai or as a snack on its own. Street carts sell bite-sized delights like aloo bhaja (fried potato slices), started bhaja (eggplant) and chanar chop (fried cheese croquettes), with golden, crunchy exteriors that give way to soft, flavourful innards.
Dinner at Arsalan’s
You cannot leave Kolkata without trying the famous Kolkata Biryani and it has to be from Arsalan. Arsalan, known for its authentic Kolkata biryani, offers a dining experience steeped in heritage and rich flavours that has enthralled both residents and visitors. Arsalan, which opened in the 1960s and today has many outlets throughout the city, owes its origins to the Awadhi cooking style brought by Lucknow immigrants.
Over the years, the recipe has grown specifically in Kolkata, incorporating subtle Mughlai flavours with local fragrant rice and tender meat cuts. What distinguishes Kolkata biryani is the exquisite balance of spices, the hint of sweetness from potatoes cooked inside the layers of meat and rice, and the careful infusion of kewra essence to enhance the aroma.
Surrounded by the exuberant atmosphere of an Arsalan outlet, whether on Park Street, Gariahat, or New Market, diners can savour succulent chicken or mutton that melts in the mouth, along with expertly prepared basmati rice topped with saffron strands. The dish is usually served with simple but important side dishes like boiled eggs, spicy cucumber raita, and salad, which all help to balance off the meal’s richness.
Sweet Endings: Iconic Bengali Mishti
A visit to Kolkata’s food scene would not be complete without a journey to its legendary mishtan bhandars, traditional sweet shops that have been attracting people for years with their classic Bengali sweets.
Kolkata’s sweet shops, such as K.C. Das, Balaram Mullick & Radharaman Mullick, and Boguntia, are renowned establishments with a history spanning more than a hundred years.
These businesses are symbols of history and creativity where recipes have been passed down and developed over generations, combining the best ingredients like chenna (fresh cottage cheese), khoa (condensed milk), and fragrant spices. Indulge in traditional desserts like mishti doi, the famous sweetened fermented yoghurt served perfectly cold; sandesh, a finely flavoured chenna-based treat that comes in a variety of textures and is infused with everything from saffron to rose, and rosogolla, soft, syrup-drenched cheese balls that have come to represent Bengali confections.
The counters of these stores are also adorned with seasonal treats like langcha, which are deep-fried sweet morsels dipped in syrup, and patishapta, which are thin pancakes stuffed with coconut and jaggery.
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